Whole with Joy in Loíza, PR
“I think you travel to search and you come back home to find yourself there.” ― Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
I’ve been dreaming about visiting Puerto Rico for years & I finally was blessed to experience Puerto Rico, the “Isle of enchantment” this past November. From chasing waterfalls, getting lost in the rainforest, to an evening ocean dip under a crescent moon in November; my time in Puerto Rico was indeed enchanting. The place that captured my heart the most was the Afro-Puerto Rican town of Loíza. While my overall experience in Puerto Rico was as fulfilling, it also came with grief due to a familiar & old story. As my friend & I traveled through the island to different areas from San Juan, El Yunque, to Aguadilla & I was struck by the lack of Afro-Puerto Rican presence. It felt like the Black people especially those of dark skin complexion were hidden. I saw images of Whiteness everywhere, White Jesus, White Papa Noel, but the images & presence of the Black people who built the island were clearly absent. It felt like the history & presence of the Black people, the backbone of Puerto-Rico felt neglected & forgotten.
On my final day, as I perused the souvenir shop at the San Juan airport I discovered that Loiza, the soul of Puerto Rico was absent from being listed on the magnets & puzzle that depicted the island. This observation reinforced my experience of feeling as if Afro-Puerto Rican history/people felt hidden. As a person of African descent, It left me feeling infuriated & has moved me to share my experience about a town that I fell in love with. There’s a part of me that wants to keep this gem, Loiza my little secret, but her history, beauty, & traditions are too grand & inspiring for me to keep to myself. I want to share my love for Loíza with the world. I’m in awe of how Loíza continues to emit light & resilience in spite of what she has been through, Loíza is a story that must be told. As resident/poet “Helmen” of Loiza in the Hulu documentary “Your Attention Please: Loiza” speaks of her story “ Loíza humble but rich, rich for its landscapes, customs, & incomparable traditions that are the pride of Puerto Rico.” Loíza is a gem whose essence should be known & experienced, especially by those of African descent. Loíza is a beautiful reflection of who we truly are as a people.
My Highlights of Loíza:
History: Loíza, Puerto Rico known as “The Capital of Traditions,” is home to the largest population of Black residents on the Island. Loíza is located on the northeastern coast of Puerto Rico & was established as a community in the 16th century by West African maroons/cimarrones. As the “pride of Puerto Rico,” Loíza tells the story of Puerto Rico’s heritage, culture, & spirit.
Art: We were able to visit & explore the home/art studio of renowned Puerto Rican artist, memory worker, & visual historian Samuel Lind. During the tour of his studio, I asked him about his inspiration for his work & he replied the words that were reflected all around me “my roots.” Samuel Lind’s passion, commitment, and love for Loíza was evident & each visitor is invited into a intimate journey through the history & people of Loíza through his work. Lind’s exhibits decades of his work capturing the culture of Loíza through the mediums of painting, screen printing, and sculpturing. I left his studio with a sense of curiosity, pride, and inspiration & purchased some of his art work to bring the àṣẹ of Loiza back home with me.
Bomba: On the last day of our trip, while on an adventure to explore a cave located at María de la Cruz recreational area and park in Loíza, my friend & I happened to stumble upon a community bomba lesson. We were taken on a journey through the different rhythms & sounds of Puerto Rico from Aquadilla to ending with bomba music in Loíza. Loiza is the birthplace of bomba which was born as a form of resistance of the Afro-Puerto Rican people. It likely began in the mid-to-late 1800s as place of fellowship & ritual of emotional release. It was where enslaved Africans of Puerto Rico gathered to move, shake off, & stomp out the pain of their conditions. Bomba has been preserved through the years & continues to be a form of protest & healing for Afro-Puerto Ricans. We were able to listen, feel, and dance to the fiery energy & rhythms of bomba which filled my spirit with immense joy & strength. I left the experience feeling more grounded in my Black identity & overall sense of self.
Learn bomba: COPI cultural center located in Piñones
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZummXOaoXuo
https://artscanvas.org/arts-culture/rooted-in-resistance-puerto-ricos-bomba-honors-black-lives
Nature: As “Helmen” tells us, Loíza is home to beautiful landscapes ranging from multiple beaches, a cave, and mangrove forest. I enjoy exploring caves and was fortunate to visit the cave located at the María de la Cruz recreational area and park in Loíza. While there we were able to tour the cave and learned about it’s archeological history. We learned the cave is in a mogote, a small karstic rock hill that was discovered in 1948 & holds the remains of the first inhabitants of Puerto Rico that date back to 4000 BC. We were able to view Taino artifacts & meet the stunning, ancient Ceiba trees on the land. We were also able to check out the Piñones beach in Loíza which was a great area for swimming because it’s located where the mangrove forest & beach dunes connect creating tide pools for magical water play.
Food: I did not have nearly enough time to eat the way I wanted while in Loíza. However while there, I was able to experience the buttery, fried goodness of the frituras with a pina colada frappe while we were in Piñones. The most memorable eating experience was discovering a neighborhood, family-owned restaurant that served the BEST food. My mouth waters as I think about the freshness, flavor, & love poured into our food. And then…that COCONUT BREAD, I am shedding tears just thinking about how divine that food was. It was so delicious, that I had to pack a few pieces of bread in my backpack for the flight back home.
Don’t Miss: ORLY & YAY Pinchos y Algo Mas
When I think of Loíza, I think of the three words I saw on a sign at a central gathering spot “Taller de Bomba N"Zambi” which read “Orgullo Afrolatino: Orgullo, Identidad, & Dignidad (pride, identity, & dignity) summing up my my sojourn to Loíza. Not only did I leave feeling seen; I left inspired by the acts of kinship, care, & community that I witnessed & participated in. One can feel the pride, warmth, & strength of the people of Loíza upholding their traditions even from spending a short time in Loíza. I experienced it as a place of coming home where my body felt known & at ease. I can’t wait to return to Loíza. Until then, I will forever hold Loíza in my heart & I hope you may you experience the grandeur of Loíza for yourself one day.